Blouse design || Learn how to design your blouse step-by-step

Updated: Aug 7, 2019

Learn how to measure, draft pattern, cut and stitch your Blouse easily


You will learn step-by-step

  1. How to take body measurement for blouse

  2. How to calculate and create pattern for blouse using the measurements

  3. How to draw the pattern for blouse onto a brown sheet and then

  4. How to transfer the pattern onto the fabric

  5. How to cut the blouse using the pattern created and

  6. How to stitch your blouse



Time stamp of contents for easily locating the topic you are looking for

▶Introduction: 0:00

▶How to take back measurement for Blouse: 0:16

- Back measurement: 0:16

- Front measurement: 0:22

▶How to do calculation for making blouse pattern: 3:12

- Back side of blouse: 3:12

- Front side blouse: 7:00

- Blouse sleeve: 11:05

▶How to draw pattern for Blouse in paper step-by-step: 13:01

- Back neck pattern: 13:01

- Front neck pattern: 18:03

- Waist band pattern: 24:25

- Blouse Sleeve pattern: 26:31

▶How to transfer the blouse pattern onto the fabric and cut: 31:03

- Back side of blouse: 31:03

- Front side of blouse (cross cut): 34:05

- Waist band for blouse: 36:27

- Sleeve for blouse: 37:08

▶How to put all the cut fabric pieces together: 38:22

▶How to draw and cut neck line for Blouse front side: 39:06

▶How to draw and cut neck line for Blouse back side: 40:10

▶How to stitch blouse: 40:48

- Back side blouse stitching (dart and back neck using bias fabric): 40:48

- Front side of blouse stitching (dart and front neck using bias fabric): 42:40

- How to attach waist band to front side of blouse: 45:42

- Adding hook and eye bands for front side of blouse: 47:52

- Joining front and back side of blouse near shoulders : 51:51

- Attaching sleeves to the blouse : 53:55

- Joining the sides of blouse: 55:55

- Finishing bottom of the blouse: 57:22

▶Closing: 57:50



How to take body measurement for blouse

First step is to take measurement for back side of the blouse. The first measurement to be taken is Back Length of Blouse.Place one end of the measuring tape near the neck bone where your chain ends and start measuring until your waist line typically this is the back length of your blouse and note the measurement Mark the point. This point is where you will measure the waist circumference Use the tape to measure the waist circumference by sliding 2 fingers inside the tape. The waist is typically the smallest part of your body. Next we will measure the Shoulder Width. Place the tape as shown at one end of the shoulder. Use the shoulder bone on both sides as reference start from one shoulder bone to another. This measurement is Shoulder width These are the 3 measurements that you will need for back side of the blouse Now we will see what measurements to take for the front side. The first measurement for front side is the Front length of the blouse. Place one end of the tape over the shoulder and the other end of the tape below the bust this is the front length of the blouse Tip: To get this measurement right, ensure to have the bra strap tightly held up before taking this measurement This is the low bust. Mark this point and use this as a reference and measure lower bust circumference. As we did before, insert two fingers while measuring. Next, we will measure chest circumference. Take measurement by adding 2 finger allowance. The next measurement is Upper Chest circumference. 


Tip: Take measurement above the chest and with the hands raised above. This is the Upper Chest Circumference. Use same way for measuring as before—insert 2 fingers inside the tape while measuring Next, let's measure Shoulder-to-bust point. Place one end of the measuring tape on the shoulder and other end on top of the bust point. Next we will take Apex-to-apex length this measurement is the distance between the two bust points Now we will see how to take Neck depth. Place one end of the tape on shoulder and other end as shown—diagonally to the centre below the neck. You can choose the Neck depth based on your preference. These are the important measurements to be taken for front side of a Blouse. We will see how to calculate and draw the pattern for Blouse using the measurements taken.


How to calculate and create pattern for blouse using the measurements


For drawing the pattern for BACK side of the blouse we need 5 measurements. They are Length of Blouse, Shoulder width, Waist circumference, Upper Chest circumference and Chest circumference. These are the 5 measurements needed for drawing pattern for back side of the blouse This is the Blouse length—from the shoulder to the waist line. We will leave 1inch as seam allowance, next we will draw shoulder width. Shoulder Line on top is calculated by dividing Shoulder width by 2 and subtracting 1inch.


Tip: Reduce 1 inch while calculating the Shoulder line so that the fabric doesn't fall below the shoulders when joining the sleeve with shoulder.


For example if shoulder width is 15, then the Shoulder Line is (15/2) minus -1in = 6.5 in

Next we will see how to calculate Armhole Depth. Armhole depth = (Chest circumference/6) - 1/2 inch. For 40 inch chest circumference, the Armhole depth is (40 inch/6) - 1/2 inch = 6.1 inch. This is our Armhole Depth.


We will add a 1/4 inch Shoulder slope to the shoulder strap.


Use the 6.1 inch from Armhole depth and add a mark. From here draw the Upper chest line. To get the Upper Chest line measurement, divide Upper Chest circumference by 4 and add 1/2 inch. In this case, the Upper chest circumference is 38 inches (38 inch/4) + 1/2 inch = 10 inch. We have now drawn the Upper Chest Line. Add 1 inch seam allowance and mark it.


We saw how to take Armhole depth. Now we will see how to draw the Armhole Curve. Armhole depth line and Upper Chest line intersect at this point. Mark 1.5 inches from this point. Use the French Curve to draw the Armhole curve Next we will determine the Inner neck. Tip: Use 2.75 inches as Inner neck if Chest Circumference is less than 36 inches. For Chest circumference above 38 inches, use 3 inches as Inner neck. This is a tip for calculating inner neck

Now we will draw Waist line for the blouse. At the end of the line, Waist circumference divided by 4 and add 1/2 inches to get Waist line. For example, for 33 inch Waist circumference, the Waist line length is 33inch /4 + 1/2 inch = 8.75 inch. Mark the line and add 1 inch as seam allowance below and on the side The next step is drawing Back dart for the blouse. Use the Shoulder width 6.5 inch divide it by half to get 3.25 inches. Find and mark 3.25 inch at the waist line. Height of the dart is typically 3 to 3.5 inches. Mark 1/4 inches on both sides of the point. Connect the dart lines. This is how you draw the pattern for back side of the Blouse We saw how to draw pattern for back side, now we will draw the pattern for front side of the blouse. We need these 5 measurements for front side of the blouse. They are Front length, Shoulder to Apex, Upper Chest Circumference, Full Chest Circumference, and Lower Bust circumference. We have seen how to take front Blouse length measurement before. This is the 'Shoulder to front length’ measurement. Mark and draw the line. We will draw the Shoulder width as we did for the back side of the blouse. The same is true for Inner neck - use the tip to find inner neck using Chest circumference. The remaining part is Shoulder Strap. Draw Armhole depth as we did for the back side blouse. The only change at the Armhole depth and Upper Chest line intersection is we used 1.5 inches for back side, here for the front side of the blouse, we will mark 1 inch to draw the armhole curve. The Upper Chest circumference, seam allowance are all the same as back. 

Let’s draw the Lower Bust line. Lower Bust line = Lower bust circumference / 4 and add 1.5 inches. For example, (36 inches/4) + 1.5 inch = 10.5 inch. 10.5 inches is the lower bust line We will now determine how to draw the main dart for the blouse. Main dart is the most important part in a blouse - this determines the shape and fit of the blouse. Take the Shoulder-to-apex measurement. Find the midpoint of the shoulder strap. Draw a dotted line downwards until the shoulder-to-apex length. In this case, the Shoulder-to-apex length is 11 inches—mark it. Draw a line from lower bust line to this point. 


Tip: The width of the main dart for blouse is 1/12 the Chest circumference.


For example, for a 40 in Chest circumference, the dart width is dart width = (40 inch/12) = 3.25 in. The total width is 3.25 in. Divide 3.25 by 2 and mark 1.75 on both sides of the line and connect the dart lines. From the main dart point, allow 1.75 inch space and draw a straight line. This line is our placket dart. Allow 1/4 inch space and draw the placket dart lines. The space between main dart and placket dart is 1.75 inches. Next we will draw the Armhole dart. Extend the main dart line to the armhole curve as shown using a scale. Add 1/4 inch on both sides of the armhole dart. The distance between the Armhole dart and the main dart is 2.5 inch.


Next we will draw the curve for lower bust line. Mark a point 2.5 inches from the lower bust line and draw a curved line. On the placket side, mark 1 inch from the lower bust line draw a curved line on both the sides. These are the calculations for front side of the Blouse Now we will see how to draw pattern for Sleeve of Blouse. The measurements required for sleeve pattern are Sleeve length, Sleeve cap, Sleeve top circumference and Sleeve bottom circumference. These are the 4 measurements needed. Starting from this point, draw a line with length of sleeve. This is length of sleeve Now we will calculate Sleeve cap. Sleeve cap = (Chest circumference/12) + 1 inch. For 40 inch, it is (40 in/12) + 1 inch = 4.1 inch. Mark 4.1 from the starting point. Draw a line from that point— this line is Sleeve top line. Sleeve top circumference is the point that has maximum measurement in the arm. The sleeve top line = Sleeve top circumference divided by 2 and add 1 inch. (14 inch/2) + 1 inch = 8 inch. Add 1 inch as seam allowance. Then we will draw sleeve bottom line using Sleeve bottom circumference. Sleeve bottom circumference is the measurement where the sleeve ends. For example, if the Sleeve bottom circumference is 14.5 inch. So the Sleeve bottom line width is (14.5/2) = 7.25 inch. 


Draw the sleeve bottom line and add 1 inch of seam allowance. Then draw a line from the starting point to the sleeve top line as shown diagonally. Mark the mid point of the line. From the mid point, add 1/2 inch on top and draw a curve for the backside of sleeve. For the front side curve, draw 1/4 inch inwards and outwards of the line.


Now we will see how to draw the pattern in a brown sheet. Follow the same method and calculations used to draw the pattern on board



Happy sewing!

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